This is a guide for printing a turnkey mount for an ElecLabs 5″ Klipper Screen, this is not a full guide for installing the mount. That being said, here is a link to the Klipper Screen documentation. Big shout out to those guys, this screens rocks.
Start by removing front Black acrylic panel with existing PanelDue and remove 4 Phillips M3 bolts, save the 4x Phillips M3 bolts for later
Make sure you have tested your Raspi Klipper Screen for functionality, if you plug in the DSI cable and nothing happens, you likely have a Type-A cable (Pins on side 1 at one end, Pins on side 2 at other end) but this screen needs a Type-B DSI cable. I simply took a normal Raspi Cam cable, clipped off the blue tag (heat gun to remove and super glue on opposite side) then took some sand paper to expose the pins on the opposite side. If that is too much work for you, just search type B DSI on the Google Machine and purchase one.
When you install the screen into this mount, side it in at an angle with the USB port nested in the cutout.
Then lineup the top mounting holes and screw in 2 of the longer M2.5 Phillips bolts provided in the kit.
Next, gently slide the partial assembly through the backside of the front black acrylic. Re-install 4x M3 Phillips bolts
Now slide the bottom piece on and align the holes and install the last two long M2.5 Phillips bolts from the kit.
Lastly, there are two holes, at an angle, that are made for M3x14mm bolts, this will securely hold the two halves together.
The 2 holes on either side of the mount are for you to design & mount your own tool/flashlight/screwdriver/etc mounts…
Finally mount the PI stand off and RaspberryPi onto the mounting studs on the back of screen & plug it in.
If you sanded your cable (or bought the correct one) then it will power up, if not nothing will happen.
Proceed with running the install commands (from above links) and you should be good to go.
Rather than charging for this before you try it, I would rather use this as an Honor System. I’m more concerned with growth than money but money is a necesarry evil for coninued development. If you found it useful and would like to see more like it, please consider donating to the designer with the “Tip the Designer” button below:
Future Projects I am considering:
Troodon Heated Chamber Mod
9mm Z Belt Conversion
Actively Heated Above Mounted Filament Drying Box
Umbilical Mounts for Troodon Cable Chain alternative
Other Top Secret Awesomeness we’re not quite ready to share yet =)
UPDATE: had an issue with the parts falling over when printed upright, I added some “forced” supports in the 3D CAD model to prevent this and it works. Just be sure to use the .3MF file attached below and print with a large brim and speed of 80mm/s. They turned out very nice now.
Have you ever wished that your Troodon door would stay open rather than slamming you in the elbow when your reaching in to do something to the machine? OR wanted to have a quick way to remove the door with our messing with the door alignment and/or not need any tools to take the door off?
Today is your lucky day!
I have composed 2 different version of this hinge, but let me explain how it works first.
I designed this to work so the upgrade gives you a “drilling guide” for the 8x new holes you will drill in the acrylic panels. Don’t worry it’s easy, all you need is: 4pc printed hinges, a 5mm (or 13/64) drill bit, and a drill
Meant to utilize existing hardware (or if you opt for the shoulder bolt version, all you need is the 2x M4x5MM OD x 25mm Long bolts)
Can be used upright (bolt inserts from top) or upside down (bolt threads in from bottom) the latter requires drilling out the top piece but will allow you to have a “tool free” removal of your door.
TPU tether prevents you from losing it when you take the door off.
Remove stock hinges/bolts
Set aside the 8-pairs of M5 Shoulder bolts & T-Nuts for later
Lay acrylic door & strip on a table with something under them you don’t mind a drill bit biting into (helps prevent acrylic from “breaking out” when you finish drilling through)
Place hinges in the now empty stock holes & SLOWLY drill, like as slow as you can make your drill go
Once holes are drilled, reassemble as before but put the TPU insert in like you see in the animation below, the holes are such that the bolts should only fit in one end of the TPU tether.
A3DP is happy to introduce our latest PiCam Mount for the Troodon!
It still mounts in the front-right corner as with the one we recommended before.
For assembly, start by plugging in the pi cable into the Pi Cam, place the cam in the red piece (as pictured above) then snap the yellow piece on. Next you will need a M3x20mm bolt to assemble the gray bottom mount to the yellow back plate. Finally, you will need a M4x12mm bolt and a 3030 hammer/ or t-nut for mounting to the front-right extrusion on your Troodon.
Please see the attached screen shot for slicer print orientation. I would suggest 0.16-0.2mm layers, ABS material for easier breakaway supports. The rear face may require some light sanding.
This solution came about because I have yet to find a nice clean, customizable solution for storing E3D v6 style nozzles. That is a thing of the past. I would like to introduce our Nozzle Storage Box.
The intention here is that the Nozzle Insert is customizable for your application. It prints with no support in 4 pieces. We are providing all of the STL files, F3D and a STEP file for those who prefer to customize their box further.